YOU haven’t “done” Hogmanay until you’ve experienced first footing, writes Nick Mitchell in The Scotsman.

Hogmanay was born out of the ancient rituals and customs determined by the working of the land and the passing of the seasons, and before the significance of the end-of-year factor, it was celebrated as the Pagan winter solstice.

Central to Hogmanay is the tradition of first footing. The superstition dictates that the first caller to cross the threshold after midnight (“the bells”) will determine the fortunes, good or bad, of the householders for the coming year.

To be a good first footer, you should:

Be a man. Female first footers were historically regarded with dread.

Be dark-haired. Fair-haired first footers were equally feared – light-complexioned callers in the night were not particularly welcome after the Viking invasions of ancient times.

Be tall. This is not strictly necessary.

Be fair (handsome). This probably began as a request from the female inhabitants and, again, exceptions can be made.

In addition, to first foot a household empty-handed is considered grossly discourteous (never mind unlucky) and could result in a heavy door in the face.

Traditionally, a first footer would bring a lump of coal (for warmth), salt (for wealth), a Black Bun (a rich fruit cake – for food) and a “hawf” bottle” (usually whisky, always alcoholic – for obvious reasons).

The “tall, dark stranger” element of first footing is becoming increasingly outdated, as it’s now more common for family members and neighbours to call on each other.

Celebrate Hogmanay South African style by throwing open your house on New Year’s Eve.

Guests don’t have to arrive with a piece of coal and black bun, but must not arrive empty handed!

Food should be easy and robust and one of the best party dishes I know is this Portuguese soup Trinchado. Serve with crusty bread for dipping.

Chicken/beef/steak/chorizo sausage

Garlic

1 tin tomato paste

2 tsp cumin

3 tsp Bisto

1 large onion

1 bottle of white wine (stein)

Beef stock cube dissolved in about 500ml boiling water

Tabasco/peri-peri to taste

Cook and debone chicken if using. My preference is 500g lean beef mince and chopped Chorizo sausage. Cut meat into pieces. Mix chopped onions, garlic and Stein together. Add tomato paste. Add stock, cumin, Tabasco and boil until onions are soft. Add Bisto and chopped meat to mixture and cook slowly.