July
05, 2008
 
 
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Stunning food, with view you could drink in forever

But if you need something stronger the winelist is also good, if somewhat pricey, writes Gillian McAinsh

THE new Simola Hotel‘s Orchid Room restaurant may be a few kilometres out of Knysna, high on the hills up a tricky, twisty road, but it‘s worth it for those in search of fine dining and – possibly – the best view in the country.

Driving up to the plush Jack Nicklaus golf course resort, you already feel as if you should be in a soft-top sports car, wearing sunglasses and headscarf, a glamorous character in a James Bond film from the 1960s.

And then you arrive and see the incredible view from your table, which stretches out to the Heads and then right past Belvidere up into the mountains. Oh, and don‘t forget the landscaped green fairways below.

It‘s a stunning sight, part Swiss alps, part Monaco yacht basin – and open to you and me, dependant on the size of our pockets.

But what about the food? Fortunately, it is good. And the decor and lighting are also spot on. The menu is a fusion of the exotic and down to earth, with a gourmet à la carte menu, smart sushi bar and more casual buffet.

What we enjoyed was that you can mix and match, hence we had sushi and steak, and ordered a Boschendal chardonnay pinot noir. The winelist had some great little numbers although, worth noting if you are on a budget, most are more than R100 a bottle.

My partner‘s starter of Thai mussel and prawns (R55) was a “wow” dish, served in an aromatic red curry sauce with just the right amount of bite and creamy coconut undertones.

My salmon roses of sushi rice and caviar were, at R55 for three, a little more pricey than those I‘ve eaten in Port Elizabeth but delicious.

So much so that it was definitely sushi for at least one main course. The salmon California rolls (eight hefty pieces for R50) and tuna maki (six nibbles for R30) had interesting garnishes like sculpted apple and grated beetroot and cucumber.

Our other main of Strindberg steak (R85) was, although thick and juicy, not that tender but then it was a rump. The creamy mustard mash, savoury jus and baby vegetables made it a solid winter winner.

The desserts were just too tempting, with an unusual creme caramel/creme brulee combo. It was perfect: crispy but light, revealing a silken treasure on a bed of liquid caramel. Wicked. As was the tiramisu, which can be a tired restaurant cliché.

Overall, the food was just lovely, taking familiar up-market restaurant staples and presenting them with a modern twist.

Our pleasant waitress Leleka didn‘t seem that confident with the menu but it was a Sunday night supper, mid-winter, and there will be time to brush up on service before high season hits. We‘ll be back.


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