Paradise twice as nice after dusty Transkei trip

Brian Hayward

THIS was indeed a journey of firsts for the My Weekend Explorer team, as we said goodbye to the snowy mountains near Lesotho‘s border and headed ever cautiously along a windy and treacherous gravel road towards the rolling grasslands of the Transkei.

Having heard much about the untouched Transkei coastline, we were excited about what lay ahead as we navigated the narrow Naudesnek pass and made our way through the small communities of Maclear, Tsolo and Zwelitsha. Leaving the rugged mountains behind us, grasslands interspersed with huts began to appear and we marvelled at the expansive community in which neighbours were neither too close, nor too far from one another in what can best be described as a semi-rural landscape.

We were heading for the Umngazi River Bungalows, just south of Port St Johns – a town known for its eccentricities and untouched by time – along the unsullied Wild Coast and along the river of the same name.

Already the weather was more temperate with the sun shining brightly as friendly faces smiled and waved at us as we passed them by.

Despite the negative reports we had heard about the state of the Transkei roads we found them in good nick, though we had to constantly be on the lookout for stray animals.

As the road twisted and turned up and down the golden mountain slopes into passes where rivers slowly snaked their way to the ocean, we made our way through the bustling hub of Mthatha and onwards towards Umngazi. The resort is well-known and even former president Nelson Mandela has spent time there with wife Graça Machel. The resort takes its name from the story of the Pondo ruler King Faku, who is said to have executed his enemies nearby with their blood – called “igazi” – flowing into the river.

The resort has grown from its early days as rustic accommodation for holiday makers into a plush, family friendly retreat where children are entertained day and night and parents can recharge. With a myriad of activities for young and old, it was refreshing to find areas where newlyweds or couples wanting some quiet time could relax, with no children allowed.

Exhausted from hours on the road, we were greeted by ever friendly hostess and general manager Michelle Walker.

Putting a smile on our tired faces, Michelle informed us our accommodation had been upgraded from a garden suite in the centre of the resort, to a honeymoon suite – one of three overlooking the tranquil river mouth and the dunes along the picturesque coastline.

The chalets, dotted around the side of the river up to the mouth, have a similar design with open-plan bedrooms and lounges and bathrooms complete with their own “outdoor” showers, consisting of shoulder-height split-poles under the thatch roofs, making the most of breathtaking views.

We had arrived just in time as Michelle informed us the buffet dinner would be served shortly in the main dining area – a scenic walk along the riverside from our “outpost” which was away from the activity of the main entertainment area.

The following day we ventured into lush Port St Johns, some 10km up the coast from Umngazi, and even managed to find the famed Ben Decker, although at the time he was chopping down a tree in one of the townships near his home in the hill overlooking Second Beach. “Can we speak later,” he asked. “I am busy for another hour at least, and after that I will be bartering for some lunch.”

Unfortunately our paths didn‘t cross again, but we did manage to stop for a coffee at the most peculiar shop where eccentric customers were mimicked by garden decorations such as a lone parking meter, planted askew.

Back at the resort we discovered there was no need to venture anywhere, with a host of activities to fill each day. We opted for a Mangrove swamp tour and after our hearty breakfast buffet, we were eager to walk off the extra kilojoules.

What turned out to be a two-hour hike was fascinating and diverse, as our guide described the reasons for the ban on coastal developments and described the slow growth of the endangered Mangrove trees.

A perfect end to our wonderful stay was an invigorating massage at the spa located on the hill, with a view all the way down the jagged coastline to the river mouth. Saying goodbye felt as if we were leaving family behind, while memories of the previous night‘s lobster buffet and energetic tribal dancing replayed vividly in our minds.

Life