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IT’S amazing being a tourist here in Port Elizabeth. There are so many strange and wonderful experiences for a tourist like me to enjoy, but let me take you on a strange journey of blue lines in the city. I am of course referring to the Heritage Trail. Initially I visited the Fort and the Pyramid and learned about the history of the city.
Previously I had been on quite a tough tour of the Karoo and as I grew up on a Welsh farm I appreciated the hardships of life.
Therefore I identified with the British Farmer Settlers finding the conditions harsh, having been misled about a paradise and fertile land. They must have had an unpleasant surprise.
My own surprise happened about five minutes after I had visited a well-kept and informative old Parsonage House near the Pyramid with impressive antiques and good maintenance – they even managed to get water after the storm last month as their old fashioned methods were so green, their well filled with rain water from the roof,
I felt good and congratulated the city for providing such a good experience. Then ... the surprise as I walked along the trail and found faded blue lines outside a strange sight of dilapidated rows of houses, not just one or two but rows of horror.
Why should this be called The Heritage Trail? Did people here turn their Heritage into a slum? The oldest house built in 1827 was also a wreck. Tears filled my eyes. These could have been showcase houses built in the 19th century, why not recognise these and preserve them? Maybe conservation is not important in Port Elizabeth? What a nasty surprise for us international tourists who are interested in the history of South Africa; what an eyesore and blot on the landscape.
My journey continued when nearby I went to Richmond Hill and found what they call the “good area”, this time rows of cottages had been beautifully restored and were worthy of a conservation prize. Nearby the Edward Hotel was also a pleasant surprise.
Then back to the horror of the Donkin Slum near the Pyramid, again these once beautiful houses were wrecks, unfit for the dwellings of squatters.
This is the prime site of the history of PE and goodness knows what World Cup visitors will think of this derelict site?
My tour continued, this time in the City Centre. I had read about old buildings like the Post Office and had admired the tower from afar, restored and pristine. I went to collect my bus ticket from Cape Tours and turned to admire the Post Office but saw a damaged roof, boards and dereliction.
Another nasty surprise which increased when I searched for the Police Office cells, as a friend had told me about raising the metal flaps and talking to the prisoners which had included men like BJ Vorster. This building could also decay so much that it would be demolished and tourists would lose the opportunity to find out about protest and taking a stand.
Continuing my journey I passed the building restored by the Mediterranean Shopping Company, my goodness the value of this has increased, they were wise spending millions for it.
I thought why can’t the Post Office be treasured, why stop at the tower? I appreciated that there had been a fire but why stop there? Talking about stopping something, this time in a more positive note, its amazing the way the motorway suddenly ends to avoid the destruction of two green mosques making a dramatic entrance to the city, flanking the green and yellow Post Office Tower. This is such a good example of conservation and respect for the Islamic Culture.
Port Elizabeth was not all doom and gloom as I admired the Nelson Mandela Art Gallery and thought of the wonders he has created; a kind of restoration of trust and unity. My mind went back to Apartheid days in London when we would celebrate his birthday when my friend Julian Bahula drummed for Nelson Mandela with the band Jabula.
Later I heard the new National Anthem and the Rainbow flag and was bowled over.This was my first introduction to South Africa and when I went to Cape Town I went to Robben Island and saw the ground that Nelson Mandela had gardened.
During my Cape Town visit I went to the Museum at District 6 and was pleased to find a similar memorial here in Port Elizabeth at South End Museum with well displayed information about the rainbow inhabitants. I learned about the Khoikhoi, then moved to the section about Gandhi and was amazed that he played football, also the Black Sash movement that Molly Blackburn joined was well documented. She stood up for what she believed in.
So I have had a mixed tour here, full of surprises. But beware and take heed Port Elizabeth: if so many sites decay or are demolished you will have little left for the tourist to come to see.
How can an Irish national get away with such a lack of care for the buildings he has bought? Is this person waiting for them to crumble further to be replaced by a supermarket?
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